'Wine was, however, the reason for and center of the lunch, and the focus of our attention. Lester D Solden, director of the Asia Wine Connection Pty. Ltd, is here to introduce boutique Australian wines to Filipino wine-drinkers, principally through le Soufflé. These, he explained, are wines from small growers, from wine farms, where the production might be as small as 250 cases, or maybe 500-1500.'

'The boutique wines are quite individual, but may share the qualities of better-known labels. Their bottles are sometimes more colorful, since they do not bear the burden of grand old traditional labels.'

'The Asia Wine advocacy is to promote new wines, give the small wine-makers a chance, give the drinking public as well a chance to venture into new wine experiences.'

'But many other friends - and I include myself with them - like wine, enjoy it with meals, but do not quite know why. They are thus willing to take friends' or the maitre d's suggestions, and are eager to learn. Guy Vaillant, also of Asia Wine Connection Pty Ltd., is a key to this learning. Trained as a chef, experienced as a sommelier in a famous Sydney restaurant, he is now devoting himself to introducing not only the wines from the 45 different vineyards they represent, but the wine experience itself. To the staff of Le Souffle, for example, who will eventually be on the frontline of questioning by people seeking wines to drink, he explains sweetness versus fruitiness, acidity, the effects of oak, vintages, and all the other variables that add to or detract from the quality of the wine.'

'He made me try a red, which seemed quite pleasant, then had me try it again after it had been slightly chilled, explaining why it had changed for the better. ... Guy spoke of balance, of the right acidity, the right fruitiness, the focus, what one looks for, of the final finish, and of the reception in front, middle and back palates. One wants, he said, not only a wine that is drinkable now, but which one can return to in 20 years.'